Stohrer – The Originator of Baba au Rhum

This is another ‘Blast from the past’ post. 2009.

No visit to Paris for pastry geeks should exclude a visit to the temple of one of pastry’s greatest cakes, Storher at Rue Montorgeuil near Les Halles in Paris.  Storher made the original Rum Baba, a simple yeast leavened cake soaked in copious amounts of Rum.

Historians (Read, the internet) says that a greedy Polish king exiled to Alsace made a Rum Baba by soaking a rich, German cake, called a Gugelhopf in alcohol.  He was as well a fan of ‘A thousand and one nights’, thus he named his creation a Baba au Rhum.

There might be a bit of history twisting there in regards to the origins of the name, as Babka is a similar cake in Poland, and Baba (According to the internet) means to be dizzy or ‘fall over’ in French.  This same Baba au Rhum is called Borracho in Spain, which means ‘Drunk’.

Regardless the origins of the name, we can all agree that this is one helluva cake that gives you a good boozy horsekick.  Nicolas Stohrer, a patissier in the King’s court brought it to Paris with the King’s daughter and the rest is history.  Mixed with butter, eggs and strong flour, this rich dough is left to rise either in cylindrical molds (Like in the pictures above), or in round circle molds with a dimple in the middle.

After the dough has risen and baked like bread, its left to dry out a bit before being soaked in hot rum syrup.  Simple adorned with candied cherry and angelica as above, its the original Baba au Rhum.  Bake it in a round circle mold, pipe whipped cream on it adorned with fresh fruits, and it becomes a Savarin.

The original version fed to the King is said to have been a dough perfumed with Saffron and soaked in Malaga wine.  I guess we’d have no choice but to make it ourselves if we would like to feast like an exiled King!

When Stohrer set up shop in Rue Montorgeuil (The shop still stands today!), he made the current version with rum only.  Biting into it, the strong Baba dough gives a nice chew, releasing sweet alcohol shots with every bite.

Conclusion

Well worth a try, if you are in Paris, because it is a nice way to get some extra ‘legs’ from all that walking.  Personally, its a pleasant cake, but not one I’d go googoo about.  I’d sure like to try the original with Saffron and Malaga wine, as it sounds like a more flavourful counterpart to this one.  If I walked past Stohrer again, what the heck, I’d still buy it to have a taste of history!

La Patisserie des Reves – Philippe Conticini

Lots of foodies were probably awaiting the opening of Philippe Conticini’s shop…..again….it is very start and stop with him, but it is so very difficult to survive in Paris when you are competing with the likes of Pierre Herme and Sadaharu Aoki.

Its on Rue de Bac, just a short walk down from Bon Marche, which carries lots of awesome foodie things and well worth a shop.  If you are looking for DelicaBar at the Bon Marche, its not there anymore and has become an Italian restaurant.  

From the outside, its really slick and the windows display all the limited offerings within.

Its got cool interiors and props for displaying the pastries, but the question you might be dying to ask is….how does it taste???

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Pierre Herme – Desire et Ispahan

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Ispahan, probably the most copied cake in the world for the past few years and perhaps destined to go down in history as another ‘Gateau St Honore’, or “Opera” or “Black Forest Cake”.  That is, a ‘classic’ cake that everyone has their own version of.

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Ask anyone which is their favourite PH cake and the answer will be Ispahan.  Marketing hype/fad or true genius?  In case you are wondering about my tone, I want to clarify that PH is probably the guy who inspired me the most and through tasting and learning everything he does, he has taught so much.  It is a disappointment of mine that I will probably never get a chance to work for him.  

Enough crap talk, on to the cakes, which were eaten in a train station on a circular bench with a cardboard tearout ‘spoon’.  Oh….how I suffer for my art!  If you were the old guy next to me with the dog, I apologise for whipping out my tripod and driving Rover a bit bonkers with the cakes.  

Desire

DSC_0189Components:

  1. Wild Strawberry Decoration
  2. Lemon Cream
  3. Banana and Wild Strawberry Compote
  4. Biscuit Joconde
  5. Pate Sablee

The wild strawberries were not really in season, so I have no idea where he got them from, but they did not pack much of a taste.  However, the Banana and strawberry compote was surprisingly nice.  Little chunks of banana that still had a bit of texture did not overpower the wild strawberry, which had lots of flavour.  They worked in harmony, one after another.  Really good!

The lemon cream was nice a light, stabilized with just the perfect amount of gelatin.  This cake had been travelling all day and other than being knocked around, it held up perfectly.  This was a really good cake that featured an unsuspecting combo of Banana and Wild Strawberry.  One of the most common, plain Jane ingredients paired with one of the most luxurious.  Incredible!

Ispahan

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  1. Macaron Shell
  2. Raspberry and Lychee pieces
  3. Rose and White Chocolate Cream

The rose flavour was subtle and balanced, unlike the horrible copies that taste like a bottle of rose extract.  The lychee pieces inside were tasteless orbs, perhaps frozen IQF lychees?  Canned lychees like those we ate in Chinese restaurants growing up would have given more flavour.

The raspberries were tasteless too.  This is an example of how commercialism trumps reason.  Due to its popularity, customers now demand that Ispahan be sold 365 days a year when the fruits are in season only for 1/4 of it.  But hey, if that brings in the money and keeps the tourists coming, it might be justifiable in my book.  Not in everyone’s book of course, but if one thinks about flavour perception on a normal human tongue/brain, taste is secondary to many other things.  

Of course this does not apply to nit-picking bastards like us who like to taste and taste and pass comments that are borne out of jealousy and envy!  Hands up how many of you pastry chefs reading this wished you had come up with Ispahan!  I can honestly say, without batting both eyelids at the same time, “Not Me!”

Money talks and bullshit walks.  What will PH tell his adoring fans who travel halfway around the world only to find Ispahan off the menu?  Those with artisan souls can flame me for all they want, but PH is a fine example of art meets commercialism.  

Conclusion

Were the cakes world class?  Of course, and I would love to try them again when all these fruits are in season.  PH probably gets a ‘get out of jail free’ card because he is still doing some of the best cakes in the world, right up there with Hidemi Sugino.

Pierre Herme – Viennoiseries

DSC_0018Note this road, for not only is Pierre Herme there, but Christian Constant, Jean Charles Rochoux and Sadaharu Aoki as well.   Such is the concentration of awesomeness here that every visit to Paris brings me to this area at least twice.

DSC_0019Glistening in the cases are his signature cakes, macarons and chocolates, but much overlooked are his other confections.  Cue his Viennoiseries, which were relegated to the bottom-est, farthest left shelf, destined to be ignored by the masses wowed by the fancy patisserie. 

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Ble Sucre – My Paris No.1 for Croissants, Madeleines and Financiers

DSC_0135If readers are getting bored of the ‘best this and best that’, thats too bad, because so often in Paris, just because IT IS PARISIAN does not make it oh so damn delicious and awesome.  The search for this ‘No.1 List of Stuff’ is a personal benchmark as references for my own stuff, and as the adage goes, one man’s tea is another’s poison.

Thats how I came across Ble Sucre, owned by Chef Fabrice Le Bourdat, who took some time out to have a chat and reminisce about the hawker food in Singapore.  He spent 3 months at the Oriental Hotel in Singapore and remembers his time there fondly.

DSC_0131Yes, I was in Paris searching for the perfect Croissant, which up till now, had the top spot taken by the croissants we used to make at Pasteleria Totel in Spain.  Here at Ble Sucre, they had 3…hmmm no, maybe 4 items that occupy top positions in ‘The List of Best Stuff’.  It is all thanks to this man, Chef Fabrice Le Bourdat.

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Best Baguette? Philippe Gosselin makes my list.

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Philippe Gosselin………..who?  Yes yes, another one of these lame introductions.  Philippe Gosselin, he of the delayed cold fermentation Baguette a l’Ancienne.  Thin, knobbly baguette sticks with huge airy holes that tastes and feels in the mouth unlike any other baguette I have eaten.  What is cold fermentation you ask?  And how the devil do I know so much about his methods?  First, we have to start from the beginning.

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Jacques Genin’s Desserts and Patisserie

If you haven’t heard of Jacques Genin yet, don’t worry, you are not alone as he spent years and years as a reclusive chocolatier making little gems of deliciousness for the bigwigs of French cuisine.  More comfortable out of the limelight in this celebrity-chef driven world, Jacques Genin probably aspires to perfection on his own terms, and this philosophy comes through in his chocolates and desserts.  So, at great risk to personal health and financial well-being, I visited his new shop in Paris and tried some of his desserts.  As you can read, its hard to be snarky and sarcastic when the experience was good!

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Gerard Mulot – Clafoutis……

Fear, excitement, trepidation, pertubation, consternation, anxiety…..the thesaurus lists so many ways of describing the feeling and fear.  It felt like the first time meeting an online crush in real life.  Had my years of infatuation with Clafoutis been in vain?   It felt silly lusting after a sour cherry tart recreated so many times in the kitchen without having ever tasted the genuine article.  Would those Boiron frozen sour cherries be the same in Singapore than in France?

Well, it was too late, its showtime and sink or swim now. I am now in front of Patisserie Gerard Mulot, famous for his Clafoutis, which is for me, a pastry middle finger to the world of fussily composed architectural showpieces with over-elaborate flavours and textures.  Egg + Flour + Cream + Sour Cherry.  It does not get simpler or better than this.  Chef Mulot, you have no idea how long this moment has been in the waiting.

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